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| Pressing my grapes seeds can result in undesirable flavors in the wine |
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Issue:
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Feb/Mar 2010
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Heavy pressure
When pressing my grapes I am aware that pressing the seeds can
result in undesirable flavors in the wine. I have always been careful
not to over-press my grapes but this year I pressed until the pulp was
dry then examined it and there didn’t appear to be any broken seeds in
the pulp. Is it possible to exert enough pressure with the typical home
basket press, to rupture the seeds?
Brian Aziz
via email
I’m so pleased you’re paying such attention to detail in your
winemaking. Absolutely we need to be concerned about extracting bitter
seed tannins in our wines and during pressing we must certainly be
vigilant. This is when the pressure of pressing can sometimes extract a
number of bitter phenolics from seeds and skins; a few of these
compounds can contribute extra tannin and “grip” to a wine, but too
much can push a wine over a bitter and gritty cliff!
This is why, towards the end of pressing, many winemakers take a “press
cut” to separate out the last 10–20% or so of the wine that comes out
of the press. Often we’ll add it all back in, but it’s nice to be able
to keep it separate for later evaluation. Taking press cuts allows you
more control in the balance between wanting to make sure you squeeze
out every last drop but also wanting to be left with the best wine
possible.
You’re also on to something when you’re guessing that a typical home
basket press is actually a pretty gentle way to separate the skins and
seeds from your new wine. There is a reason that many uber-premium
wineries, especially those that specialize in Pinot Noir, have spent
many thousands of dollars for the new generation of “traditional” 3–8
ton basket presses for their fine wines. The typical commercial bladder
press (which inflates a big balloon inside a big metal drum, pushing
the must to one side against interior drainage channels) can reach
pressures of 2 bar or more so winemakers can, as a buddy of mine says,
“squeeze the snot out of the grapes,” not that you would want to. While
there’s no way that a typical home basket press can reach those kinds
of pressures, I still do recommend winemakers keep a sharp eye (and
sharp tastebuds) on the wine (or juice) that comes out toward the end
of pressing. Even if no seeds are broken (they’re pretty strong little
nuggets and rarely “rupture” even in commercial-sized presses), a good
hard last squeezing on the ol’ basket press can still cause some bitter
and phenolic liquid to come out.
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