Ah! Those bad sulfites; they’re such an easy target. What else can people blame for headaches after drinking red wine? After all, there is even a regulation that requires the mandatory mention contains sulfites on all wine sold in the U.S. So there must be some health concerns with sulfites. But why is that not indicated on other sulfite-containing food and beverages? Why is wine singled out? All are valid, interesting questions.

Recent research has shed some light on this controversy as only a very small segment of the population, approximately one percent, is actually allergic, exhibiting asthmatic reactions, not headaches. In fact, very few people, if any, actually complain of headaches after drinking white wines, which typically contain higher levels of sulfite as these are more prone to spoilage effects and therefore need added protection.

So why are people getting a headache when drinking (in moderation) red wine?

The answer lies in biogenic amines, namely, histamine and tyramine, both of which are known to have physiological effects. Those individuals that have the digestive enzymes to inactivate the biogenic amines will not suffer any ill effects; but for others, the amines can spell a head-splitting ache or migraine.

Histamine is derived from the amino acid histidine and is believed to cause headaches with some doctors recommending taking antihistamine tablets before drinking red wine if someone is susceptible. Tyramine is derived from tyrosine and is believed to trigger migraines. Both amines are produced in only very tiny amounts in wine, but their effects are exacerbated in the presence of alcohol.

Where do histamine and tyramine come from? Both are by-products of malolactic fermentation—a winemaking technique mostly used in red wine production—where lactic acid bacteria convert malic acid into lactic acid. But only some types of bacteria produce the amines, and therefore, only those red wines affected by histamine- or tyramine-producing bacteria will contain the effecting amines. How can we, the consumers, tell? We can’t.

As for asthmatic attacks, sulfur dioxide causes inflammation of mastocytes, or mast cells, that reside in tissues including those in the lungs. The mast cells contain many granules rich in histamine and which are released during the inflammation, triggering the attack. For non-asthmatics, sulfur dioxide is considered safe when within prescribed legal limits. And in fact, our bodies manufacture a small amount of sulfur dioxide during the metabolism of amino acids, and which it converts into harmless sulfate.

Are there sulfite-free wines? No. Sulfite, or more precisely, sulfur dioxide, is a natural by-product of fermentation, albeit in small quantities, and therefore, wine can never be totally free of sulfite, unless DNA and genetic engineering research and development find a way to alter or remove the gene that codes for sulfite production.

And what about switching to organic wines? Sure, they have much less sulfite, but recent studies have shown a higher level of biogenic amines in organic wines than their non-organic counterparts.

Are you getting a headache yet?